Lost in Las Vegas

IT’S THE OLD chicken-and-egg question: Are people fat because they come to Las Vegas, or do they come to Vegas because they’re fat? The other conundrum that plagues me in Sin City: Why am I here? More precisely, why am I — who does not like to drink...

Humboldt Redwoods State Park

The Avenue of the Giants splits the redwood groves so dramatically it seems Moses paved the road with a wave of his cane. I imagine the Sinkyone Indians, who lived here for thousands of years, hunting and gathering food from these forests. The groves were so thick...

Booming Beijing

Yongdingmenwai. Yongdingmenwai. Yongdingmenwai. Great. I’ve just arrived in Beijing, I don’t know where I am, and no matter how I pronounce my hotel’s street name, it comes out all wrong. Not that the passers-by aren’t trying to understand me....

A Boulder Runs Through It

Picture a house designed by John Muir and the Brothers Grimm, and you’ve got Stonehenge.  Stepping through a boulder cavern, you spill out into a multi-tiered living room 23-foot-high. An 80-ton granite boulder forms one end of the living room; another slab of...

Walking His Talk

LISTENING to John Francis recount his fifty-six years, you might not guess that he was silent for seventeen of them. Looking at his dreadlocks and gold earring, you wouldn’t imagine that he once had a desk job with the U.S. Coast Guard. Idling next to Francis on the...