The Mystery of Bulgaria

For a dose of the red tapeĀ and helter-skelter services that plague post-communist Europe, head for Bulgaria. The average pack-a-day smoker could outrun a Bulgarian train, and maps seem to be drawn by an astigmatic drunk. Travelers risk a $200 fine for failing to fill...

Pilgrimage to Tibet

Tibet is a place of pilgrimage. To Tibetans, for whom religion encompasses all, sacred sites are everywhere: city monasteries, holy boulders and hermit caves. The longer and harder the journey, the more the merit. For Westerners who worship superlatives, Tibet’s...

Living Late in Madrid

Three hours behind schedule, the Madrid-bound 747 was still circling JFK’s runways without a word from the Iberia Airlines crew. The Spanish passengers barely glanced at their watches; the Americans on board were unmistakable from their scowling brows and...

Legends of Romania

Dubbed the Wild West of Eastern Europe, Romania has always inspired ferocious and seamy yarns, from medieval legends passed down its villages to traveler’s tales spread near its borders. Gassed trains and pickpocket gangs scare many tourists off Romania’s...

Jordan: Jewel of Arabia

At the hinge of the Middle East, Jordan is a traveler’s jewel still relatively unknown by the Arab-fearing West. At best, we may recall that the king-ruled nation meets Israel and Egypt at the Gulf of Aqaba, and Lawrence of Arabia once tramped through its vast...

Hungarian Rhapsody

There are two schools of travel. One faction journeys to lower their living standards, by eating things and sleeping in places they wouldn’t dream of at home. The other travels to raise standards, by eating things and sleeping in places they wouldn’t dream...